Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Thom Browne Does His Thing In Florence
Damn, isn’t Thom Browne amazing!? Instead of showing his 2009 Fall/Winter clothing line at New York Fashion Week he decided to stage his first European fashion show at Pitti Uomo in Florence this week. He used 40 male models all dressed alike in finely tailored asphalt grey suits with grey cardigans, sleek narrow grey ties, and black wing tips. Over the suits, each model wore a camel-colored cadet jacket that was cotton with no padding, making it perfect for weather protection.
The whole ensemble looked like something out of a 1950’s and 60’s New York Wall Street trader closet. Each suit was cut to Thom Browne perfection: pant legs cut high above the ankle, pants fitted high on the waist, snug fitting jacket. The only thing missing from the models was the signature Thom Browne tie bar – which he wore himself only with a black ensemble.
The show had a militaristic feel and look to it, as each model strolled walked in one after the other in orderly fashion. After they walked into the room a fictional boss rang a bell, prompting all of the models to take off their overcoats and suit jackets, hang them up, sit down, and begin typing. They sat at identical desks and ate apples for lunch.
While the show failed to show much, well, any variety, Browne wanted to show off his greatest hit, the shrunken gray suit and cardigan with arm stripes.
Each suit was impeccably tailored and the order of the show is nothing like the fashion world has seen before. I would love to duplicate this entire look – maybe I’d have the pants a little longer, but I’d be showing some ankle. I also hope my office looks something like this someday…minus the typewriter of course.
*Click on the pictures to enlarge them and see the detail